R/C boat building: Carol Moran
here’s the official website I mentioned in the post: http://www.dumasestore.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=47_53&products_id=247
If you’re planning to buy this search around. You can get it for as low as $60
here is what the completed Carol Moran will look like (it does not come with the stand in the picture, that one is custom built)
Now to get on to: My Build
Note: I do not recommend this to any kids as their first model because the instructions can be vague and it requires soldering. So far I have built 4 models: 2 boats and 2 planes, I happened to have the planes lying around.
Note 2: This being my first post let me remind you this model requires paint and glue, so will any others I do. Now lets get on with the build.
When you take the pieces out of the box they look intimidating because there are so many, my recommendation (from the instruction booklet) is to label the pieces before you start cutting using the piece locator in the back of the instuction book. Don’t worry about erasing any marks you will paint over them.
Here’s a picture showing how the pieces come out of the box (I cut out the pieces for the stand already):
Here’s a close up picture of one of the “trees” of wooden pieces:
Here are pictures of the books the model should come with, this one is the instruction booklet:
the photo sheet on how to modify a servo for use as a motor and a speed control and how to solder the railings:
an 11 x 17″ diagram booklet that corresponds with the instruction booklet:
a 24 x 36″ full size diagram of the finished tug:
Here is a picture of the assembled stand, I painted it black (sorry it’s a little out of focus) :
Here is a picture of the hull clipped together (it’s actually glued and fiberglassed together also but I didn’t take a picture before):
Speaking of fiberglass, in the instructions it says to put fiberglass tape over the seam on the inside of the hull. Well after going to R/C Hobbies (a hobby store), figuring out that fiberglass was expensive, and deciding to epoxy the hull instead, I looked in the small bag that has the metal tubes for the stuffing box and the propeller, and there was some fiberglass tape. For any of you building this model here is a picture of the fiberglass tape I’m talking about to help you find it:
I finished fiber glassing the hull using CA (super glue a.k.a. Zap-A-Gap) and let it cure overnight. Then I decided to water test the hull (in the bath tub)before I put the decking or anything else on. I filled up the bathtub put 1 1/2 pounds of buckshot (for ballast) in the hull and put it in the water. It floated! Here’s what it looked like:
I put in the stuffing box, it’s support and the rudder tube, for these I had to cut the 1/8 flange off the back (although later I figured out that I had to cut it off all around the hull):
Here are the deck supports glued in. If you look very closely you can see little cuts in the wood, since this is really meant as an adult kit, I had to measure and cut all of those cuts:
After the deck supports I glued on the first rub rail. Here’s a picture of the rub rail (the black line) held on by 29 clothes pins. I used this same method with the deck supports except I used 10 less clothes pins:
This is a picture of the freeing ports where the bottoms are cut just above the deck. I had to cut these all out myself, the green putty is there because for some of the freeing ports:
I finally finished the rub rails. They are not perfect as you can see if you look closely but they’re pretty good. Since I had a junky compass for measuring I used a binder clip to hold it in place, and that worked very well. Then for the ones I couldn’t clip into place (every one except for “A”) I taped the entire rub rail down and glued it in between the tape. Then when I took the tape off I put a coat of glue on the entire rub rail.
P.S. it says to use capillary action for gluing on some things and that’s just placing the two pieces together and pt glue on the seams and the glue will seep in:
I installed the coaming the way they told me to. Except when it says to “temporarily cement” the supports into place I just taped them into place so they came right off when the glue dried. I also taped most of the right angles to keep them in the proper shape. Once everything was dry I epoxied cracks where the coaming pieces meet each other, then sanded everything smooth (and shaved it to get the cabin to fit over it).
P.S. in this picture it is not epoxied
I finally got to painting the hull and, after a little touch-up, I think it came out excellently. I have two recommendations for painting 1) once you have the waterline marked off (at least on this model you need to do that) tape the lines that you need to paint because it’s almost impossible to paint a straight line free-hand (at least for me) 2) for this model DO NOT spray paint it because the hull is thin and bendable and the paint could crack if the hull bends and you spray painted it. Now for the picture:
P.S. If you look in the background you can see me taking the picture
This kit provides everything you need to build the cabin (except glue and clamps) but the front of the cabin and pilothouse are curved and Dumas just provides a flat piece that needs to be bent. At first I tried just gluing it in the middle then gluing the sides down and that didn’t work. Then I tried bending the piece before I glued it and that didn’t work. I finally glued down the center and clamped and glued (epoxy and superglue) the sides down. For anyone having trouble with this, here is a picture of what I did:
I’ve finished the cabin except for painting it, and putting the portholes on. The side railings aren’t perfect but it’s my first time even having to do something like this. I had to cut and bend the brass, then drill all the holes. Since the holes are so small (1/32 in.) I had to buy a Dremel(it’s like a drill with a bunch of different attachments for sanding, drilling, cutting, polishing, etc.). I’ve only had it for a week but I highly recommend it to anyone in this hobby and I got mine for only $30 a Home Depot:
The cabin and pilothouse are now completely finished, all it needs is detailing. If you’re building a model I recommend using scissors to cut out the decals. A hole-puncher will go through the paper backing but has trouble going through the mylar. Also for the gussets, I recommend using the edges of the styrene that is the thickness called for. That way you already have the right angle and you just have to measure for the hypotenuse (the side opposite the right angle). Then drill the hole in the middle before you cut it:
Here is the almost finished cabin. It’s completely done except for the running lights which will not work because of space issues in the hull (I’ll post a picture of the finished layout). The flagstaff is not mentioned in the instructions but the materials are provided the make it. Also the mast is very hard to drill for the second piece be very careful, I had to touch it up with green putty because I messed up the hull. Also one great tip is for the rigging (the lines in the picture, which are very hard to get tight), after you put the line where you want it and put a drop of CA there spray on some Insta-Set and it’ll dry instantly. This is the easiest way to get rigging to look tight. Now for the picture:
Here’s the final interior (electronics) arrangementfor the boat. Towards the bow (left in the picture) on the bottom is ballast and on the side just above it is the ESC (electronic speed control). Behind that with he blue thing around it (heat sink) is motor, on the side above that is the receiver. Behind that (on the far side), the green and black things are the batteries and behind them is more ballast. Behind the motor (on the closer side) is the rudder servo (to turn the rudder) and behind the is the ballast.
Now here is the final picture of this build, it’s a picture of the Carol Moran in it’s final resting place, on one of my shelves. In this picture all the deck bits are on and the fantail is on. The plane next to it is my Revell x-15, which I’ve also finished recently.